Testing Blown Speakers
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Speakers
Testing Blown Speakers
Testing Blown SpeakersFrom detritu--(at)--x.netcom.com Sun Nov 28 22:12:39 CST 1999 From: Lord Valve Newsgroups: alt.guitar.amps Subject: Re: Test for Blown Speaker Date: Sun, 28 Nov 1999 15:47:40 -0700 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Server-Date: 28 Nov 1999 22:36:48 GMT To: JIM WESNOR Xref: geraldo.cc.utexas.edu alt.guitar.amps:217146 JIM WESNOR wrote: >Any good quick tests for a blown speaker - like visual >or DC resistance? >Thanks in advance. Lord Valve Speaketh: DC resistance is sometimes a clue. If you don't see any, it's a fairly safe bet that the voice-coil is open. ;-) Sometimes the DCR can rise if the coil is burned, or lower if the coil has shorted turns. In order to make any useful measurements, you'll need a 4-1/2 digit DMM with a 200- or 20-ohm scale. You'll need to allow for testlead resistance, too, since this resistance can fool you if not taken into account. You can also *gently* flex the cone in and out with your fingers; you'll need to make sure you're not tilting the cone in any direction, because this will cause the same rubbing/scraping sounds that indicate a bad VC. The *best* way to check a speaker is to put it on your bench amp and sweep it with a signal generator; some rubs may not show up unless a specific frequency is fed to the speaker. I do a preliminary test by "shaking" the cone up and down at 6 Hz; this freq is too low to hear (unless you're a whale or an elephant) so any noises you encounter while doing this will be from the coil, suspension, etc. Be careful not to clip the amp while doing this. A tube amp is best (I use a Dynaco MK III) since many SS amps have low-freq protection that either filters freqs this low before they reach the input stage, or interrupts the speaker output or shuts down the DC supply to the output transistors. Speaker tests are best made with the speaker *removed* from the amp, as cabinet rattles can masquerade as speaker defects. Lord Valve VISIT MY WEBSITE: http://www.freeyellow.com/members2/lord-valve/ Good tube FAQ for newbies. Click the e-mail link and join my SPAM LIST; just put "SPAM ME" in the header and I'll sign you up. (If you only want a set of e-mail catalogs, put "CATS ONLY" in the header.) I specialize in top quality HAND-SELECTED NOS and current-production vacuum tubes for guitar and bass amps. Good prices, fast service. TONS of gear and parts in stock...let's DEAL! NBS Electronics, 230 South Broadway, Denver, CO 80209-1510 Phone orders/tech support after 1:00 PM Denver time at 303-778-1156 NOW ACCEPTING VISA AND MASTERCARD CHAT WITH LORD VALVE: Log onto any DALnet server and join channel #CONELRAD. Look for me there most any night after 11:00 PM Denver (Mountain) time. Guitar-amp questions and what-have-you are welcome. "I got the chop...I'll never get popped." - Tower of Power From rich--(at)--imeelect.com Mon Nov 29 12:53:10 CST 1999 From: Rich Koerner X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Newsgroups: alt.guitar.amps Subject: Re: Test for Blown Speaker Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Date: Sun, 28 Nov 1999 22:13:59 -0500 Xref: geraldo.cc.utexas.edu alt.guitar.amps:217208 JIM WESNOR wrote: > > Any good quick tests for a blown speaker - like visual or DC resistance? > > Thanks in advance. Blown would imply it's dead. No sound. Frozen in the gap, or the coil is open. In addition to the suggestions given by LV, there is the THUMP Test. You take the speaker and hold it up to your ear and Thump it close to where the dust cap cover is located over the voice coil. It should sound tight like a rack tom. Now if it sounds like a drum with snares making contact with the other head, you have a failure of the cone/coil structure. Check the glue seems for separation. Re-glue if found. Otherwise, you have to rebuild it. Regards, Rich Koerner, Time Electronics. http://www.timeelect.com Service * Repair * Modifications * Design Engineering Live Sound & Studio Production
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